Here is where the original information was found

The cross over high steer arms are built on to the top of a set of lower trunion bearing cap covers for a solid axle toys. These cap covers are available at junkyards for very cheap. Most people by the arms and do not take the lower covers. The covers are machined flat on the top surface so they will mate with the new arm that will be welded to the top of it. Trough the edges at 45degrees so that you will have a place to lay a solid patch of weld. The bearing cap cover is complete and ready.

You will now need to build the arms. I used 1" X 2" X 3&1/8" flat bar to build the bottom section of the arm. Again trough the metal on all the edges to be welded, lay it down on the bearing cap cover and weld it to the top of the cover. At this time no holes are drilled in the arms. Basically what you are left with is a block of steel about 1&1/4" tall X 3&1/8" long X 2" wide.

Next you will need the arm. Both arms are of a different length. The passenger side arm is longer than the driver's side arm.

Passenger side: 2" X 8&3/4" X ?". Again, trough all the edges and weld it to the top of the block with the bearing surface that you have just created.

Driver's side: 2" X 6&5/8" X ?". Trough all the edges and weld it the same as the passenger side arm. You now have two arms ready for machining. >/p>

The next step is to machine both sets of arms flat on all surfaces, cleaning up the welds and making them esthetically pleasing.

Using the bottom bearing cap cover of each arm as a template, drill all 4 knuckle holes on a drill press being very careful to make sure they are at a perfect 90 degrees. You will no longer need studs in the knuckles. These will be replaced with grad 8 bolts of the same thread pitch.

Ok, you are at the point at which you need to decide if you will use tie rod ends or heim joints for you steering set up. If you decide to use heim joints I personally would recommend using a joint with built in spacers such as those that All Pro sells. They are expensive but you will appreciate them big time. Trust me. If you decide to use a tie rod end you will need the drill the holes and then taper them with the proper taper needed for the specific tie rod end. This will also require spacers because the ?" arm is not thick enough to accommodate an entire tie rod end. The other solution is to use a ?" thick arm instead of a ?" arm. Give some thought to clearance issues before you do this, for I have not done this type arm and am not sure if this will work?

Rod end/Heim Joints or tie rod end holes:

Passenger side arm: The passenger side arm receives two holes, one for the drag link and one for the tie rod. From the back of the arm (the side that will face to the back of the truck when installed on the knuckle) the first hole should be drilled at 5&7/8" and dead center on the arm. The next hole will be drilled at exactly 8" from the back of the arm.

Driver's side short arm: The driver's side receives only 1 hole. This hole will need to be the same as the 1st hole you drilled on the passenger arm at 5&7/8" from the back of the arm.

The basic arm is now complete. Now you will need to taper each arm. From front to back the arms are tapered. The front of he arm should only be 1 ?" wide. This means that you will need to taper a ?" from each side working it's way out and back to the original 2" thickness of the arm by the time it reaches the "block" of the arm. This is done for clearance reasons. I will state now that the arms will not work on tires wider than 14.5" without a set of wheel spacers or custom off set wheels.

Next on the list is to add the gussets and box the bottom of the arm portion in with the block portion of the arm. Using 3/16" flat plate box and gusset the arm so that rock or tree stumps don't have a chance to hit the bolts used to secure the hiem joints or tie rod ends.


The arms will set inward at an 8 degree angle because the knuckles set at that angle. You may need to move the shock mounts on the axle inboard to clear the shock body if you run shocks in the convention mode (body down) or you can run them shock body up.

Happy fabricating